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Set up for Potty Training Success!

To prevent any potty accidents inside the house, you must manage your puppy’s environment. This means your puppy should always be in one of the four options below while in the house.

• In a crate, put your puppy’s crate in a location that is convenient and quick access to the outside potty area. You don’t want your puppy to have to an accident because it was too far to make it to the appropriate potty area in time.

• Tethered to you with leash around your waist or right next you with a leash in hand or tied to a sturdy object that cannot be pulled over (this way your puppy cannot wander out of your sight)

• In a puppy play pen with a potty box or fake grass with a

pee pad underneath the grass so puppy has an appropriate place to

go potty. A play pen is a good option for those that work and

are unable to let puppy out every 2 to 3 hours during the day.

• Free with Supervision. This means your puppy stays in the

same room you are in and you are looking at/ watching/

playing with your puppy the whole time they are free. The

moment you turn your back an accident could happen.

Crate training

A crate is a great tool for potty training and it also teaches your

puppy that being separated from you or being confined for a little while is okay.

The crate should have just enough room for your puppy to lay down and turn around, don’t make the mistake of giving your puppy too much space until the habit of going potty outside has been established! Some crates come with a divider, but if your crate doesn’t have one you can put a plastic bin/box turned upside down in the back of the crate to make the crate smaller.

Build a positive association with being in the crate

Toss a treat or some kibble pieces in the crate every time you put your puppy in his/her crate.

You can also put chew toys/ bones to keep your puppy occupied. *Make sure the toys are not ones that your puppy can shred, rip up and swallow pieces of.

Feed your puppy their meals/part of their meals inside the crate on the floor.

You can also put part of their kibble meal inside a treat dispensing toy, a Kong toy or filled cow hoof to let them work to get their meal. Mix some of your puppy’s dog food with canned pumpkin puree or canned dog food, or peanut butter, or cheese spray, then fill the Kong or cow hoof. You can also freeze the filled Kong/ Cow hoof before you give it to your puppy for a longer lasting teething treat.

Do not let your puppy out of crate when it whines or barks because you’ll be rewarding that behavior and it will get worse! However, be aware of their potty schedule, if its close to break time they might need to go, so hush them then let pup out in the moment of silence & run outside to the potty area! In addition, by letting a puppy out when it whines or barks you could accidentally help them develop separation anxiety or confined frustration that eventually leads to them destroying the crate or a room in your house when left alone.


How to teach hush

Cover the crate with a sheet while puppy is whining/barking and you can tap the top with your hand firmly and say hush or quiet. If tapping with your hand does not work you can tap the top of the crate with a can/ bottle filled with a few rocks or pennies. When puppy is quiet you can pull the sheet back so puppy can see out the front door. If the whining starts again then cover, your puppy will quickly learn whining and barking will get him/her covered and quiet behavior means he/she get to see out or come out of the crate.

How often should you take your puppy out to potty?

The answer is as often as your puppy needs, however, as a

general rule though the same number of hours as their age in months.

For example, a two month old puppy can be crated for 2 hours at

a time before they will need a potty break. So your potty schedule

will usually be in 2 hour intervals when you first get your puppy.

The 2 hour rule is not a set in stone rule, I once had a tea cup

puppy that I was potty training and I had to take her out every 30

minutes in the beginning and I was able to start increasing the

time by 5 minutes (so 35 mins, then 40 mins, then 45 mins) etc.

after she was consistently holding for 30 minutes until I reached

the 2 and then 3 hour interval.


*Common sense rules*

- Every time you let your puppy out of its crate you must take it out

to go potty even if you just took them 15 minutes before on their

scheduled potty break. You are building a habit and your puppy

must have the option to do the right thing every time.

-Give your puppy a potty break 2 to 5 minutes after they finish

eating a meal.

-If your puppy has had a large drink of water, he/ she will not be

able to hold their bladder for 2 hours. Best to take them out in 20

to 30 minutes again for a quick break.

-No outside of the crate time if your puppy has not gone potty outside

right before.

-If your puppy does not go potty when you take them out for a

break then put your puppy back in the crate and try another break

in 15 to 30 minutes.

Don’t give your puppy the chance to have an accident!

When you let your puppy out of the crate, play pen, laundry room

etc. HURRY outside to the potty area. Put your puppy on a leash

or pick him/her up so it doesn’t have a chance to stop and squat

while inside. If your puppy has excitement pee issues it is often

best to open the house door first then go open puppy’s crate door

and immediately RUN outside while clapping, whistling, calling

your puppy so it chases after you to the potty area. For severe

excitement peeing pups I’ll even offer a yummy treat (boiled

chicken) through the crate door while I’m opening the door so

they don’t have a chance to think about tinkling in the crate as I’m opening it.


How to condition a "Go Potty" cue

Stand still while your puppy is looking for the perfect spot to potty, don’t talk to them or

play with them until after they have gone potty.

The only thing I will say in a command tone is “go potty” the moment a puppy

squats to go poo &/or pee, in this way you can teach your puppy to eliminate on cue.

It’s a helpful command when you travel and your puppy is not in its accustomed potty area, your puppy will still know what you want them to do in the new area if they have been taught “go potty”.

Example schedule:

*If you work then follow during the hours you’re at home and keep

puppy in play pen/ small room with a fake grass potty area while

you are working.


6AM Let out of crate and go immediately outside to the potty

area. Stand in one area and do not walk around much or pay

attention or talk to her until after he/she has gone potty poop and

pee. Your puppy NEEDS to go Poop outside before you can let

him/her have any free time inside the house. If he/she does not

poop then put back in the crate and feed breakfast/ water then

take puppy out to try again as soon as they are done eating. *If

your puppy pooped right before breakfast then it generally will not

poop again right after eating.


6:30 / 7AM take out for another quick pee potty break because

puppies tend to drink lots of water when they get out of crate first

thing in the morning or if /he she did not poop yet then this is a

good chance to try again.


9 AM Potty break and then training session. Back to crate or

playpen.


11 AM Potty break and short walk


1PM Potty break, Lunch (if feeding 3 times a day) and then play

time outside in fenced area.


1:30 PM bring inside for nap time in crate.


3 PM Potty break back to crate.


5 PM Potty break/ training session


7 PM Potty break back to crate/ playpen

*** Take away all water sources by 7PM or if your puppy

holds their bladder really well, then take away water 2 hours before your last potty break for the night.***


8 PM Feed supper and let out for potty again/ walk.


10 PM Potty break/ supervised free time/ play time.


10:30/ 11:30 PM potty break and to crate for the night.

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